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SHM 26

Before you start

Every project results in "lessons learned". I would like to share them with you as to your consideration whether to heed them or not. Also read the the evaluation page to better understand my advices.

Etched lines

The etches look impressive with etched lines all over the place. Remember though that some of them are not prototypical. Check on photos (there are enough of them in my report of the loco at SHM). Remove etched lines beforehand. Fiddly work but well worth the effort. Sand all remaining etch lines down to half their original height, especially the window frames. This way they are more prototypical and their flattened tops make decalling a lot easier.

Drive

The SPUD. Yeah. If you want it, have it your way. My advice: send it orbital. Build your own drive if you possibly can. I bought a Universal Power Bogie from Locos n Stuff (Mark Clark) and it works fine.

Couplings

I used three link chain couplers. They interfered with the screws that connect the drive to the rest of the loco. Before you start drill two new holes in the footplate as far inward to the middle of the loco, or better: as far away from the buffer beam, as the connecting bottom etch will allow. Thus you create room to make the couplers functional.

Also do your homework beforehand if you want NEM-couplers

Boiler rings

The boiler rings are way too thick. Find yourself a lathe and turn them down to say 0.1 mm.

Valances  water tank sides

Cut them off their assembly. Build yourself two new ones from scratch that match the prototype and solder the manhole hatches of the original sides in the middle of the new ones.